Martine Rose, the celebrated UK designer, left an indelible mark at Milan Fashion Week with her Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The show was not only a testament to her unique creative vision but also a significant milestone as it marked her first runway showcase in Italy. The atmosphere was charged with emotion as Rose, accompanied by models, stylists, and hairdressers, celebrated the culmination of her efforts. With tears in her eyes, she embraced the success of her inaugural Milan Fashion Week showcase, a moment that underscored her profound impact on the fashion scene.
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The SS25 collection, held minutes away from the iconic Fondazione Prada, brought together an eclectic array of elements that have become synonymous with Martine Rose’s design ethos. The venue was an intriguing spectacle in itself, strewn with branded posters and a mishmash of discarded fabrics and towels that hung from the walls, adding to the dismantled feel of the setting. The runway reverberated with booming tunes reminiscent of the late-night raves in London, imbuing the event with an unmistakable energy and vibrancy.
In her SS25 show notes, Rose declared that the collection was ‘dedicated to expressions of beauty spawned from disturbance, humor, and sex.’ This declaration was vividly brought to life on the runway with her signature oversized silhouettes, challenging conventional beauty standards and provoking thought. Models showcased enlarged prosthetic noses and knotted hip-length wigs, adding an element of the surreal to the proceedings. The collection was a reflection of Rose at her creative zenith, featuring structural garments that beautifully toed the line between fragility and strength.
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Sportswear played a pivotal role in the collection, with strong shoulders and tailored designs making a bold statement. Printed tops and cascading satins added a touch of elegance, while latex trousers juxtaposed with ROSE-branded buckles and ‘LOCAL HERO’ caps brought an edge to the aesthetic. Leather-strapped bottoms and slumping bunny neckties added a quirky twist, demonstrating Rose’s flair for blending the unexpected with the wearable.
One of the standout features of the SS25 collection was its use of splotched patterns, which adorned three-piece masculine suits with a scientific edge. Paneled polos with minimalistic chest embroidery complemented these suits, offering a harmonious blend of the avant-garde and the understated. Crinkled leather outerwear paired with deconstructed baseball tops strung together by crossed rope brought a sense of ruggedness to the lineup, while brawny winter jackets with multiple pockets provided practicality without compromising on style.
The collection also featured hefty workwear jackets, stripped football shirts, and printed denim, each piece guiding the collection down multifaceted paths. Two-piece tracksuits added to the diverse range, while Rose’s latest collaboration with Clarks provided a nod to her ongoing partnership with the iconic footwear brand. A single pair of Nike TNs made an appearance on the runway, hinting at an exciting new collaboration with the swoosh. The TNs, distinguished by doubled tongues and shiny mudguards, were a testament to Rose’s ability to innovate and surprise.
Overall, Martine Rose’s SS25 collection was a triumphant British homecoming in Milan, showcasing her ability to push boundaries and challenge norms. The intricate details, from the structural designs to the thoughtfully curated accessories, highlighted her unwavering commitment to creativity and originality. As she continues to grow in her craft, Rose’s impact on the fashion world promises to be profound, and her SS25 collection is a shining example of her visionary talent. For more insights into Martine Rose’s collection and other Milan Fashion Week highlights, stay tuned to Hypebeast.
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